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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.